Dry Erase Hanger Note Tutorial!

23 June


Are you forgetful???  I’m sure your not, but these little dry erase notes may come in handy for those forgetful ones you live with!

Hang on the doorknob of the front door for a quick reminder right before leaving the house. Or, try one in the car on the rear view mirror.  Driving is usually when I  remember all I have forgotten!

These notes are designed to carry a mini-dry erase pen, and there is a little pocket in the back for tucking a spare house key or some emergency money.  So much more earth friendly than those yellow notes (you know the ones!) – just wipe off the old message and use over and over again!   And, there are four different designs to choose from:

So, here’ what you do:

Dry Erase Notes
Finished size 4 x 4″
Use 1/4″ seam allowance unless otherwise indicated
  • (1) 4 1/2″ square of fabric for foundation of front panel
  • (1) 3 1/2″ square fabric scrap for middle layer of front panel*
  • (1)  3″ square fabric scrap for top layer of front panel (cut @ 2 3/4″ square if  making design #3)*
  • (2)  3 1/2 x 4 1/2″ scraps for back panel (pocket)
  • (1)  5 1/2″ square of 8 gauge clear plastic vinyl
  • (1)  4 1/2″ square fusible stabilizer (for foundation applique)
  • (1)  4″ square heavy-weight interfacing (I used one-sided fusible but non-fusible can be used)
  • (1)  3″ square of fusible web
  • (1)  3 1/2″ square of fusible web
  • 10″ (approx.) of  1/4″ or 1/2″ elastic
  • Basic sewing supplies
  • Non-stick sewing machine foot (If you don’t have one, alternatives are covered in instructions)
  • Mini dry erase markers (I found them at Staples –  on sale – yeah!)

 * For design #3, cut piece using a pinking rotary blade. If you don’t have one, or would prefer, you can use a regular blade.

Pick & Print Applique Pattern: Download and print the applique pattern sheet for designs 1, 2 & 4. Pattern isn’t required for design #3.  Do not use the “scale” option in your printer options, print at 100%.

Stabilizer and Fusible Web: Apply following manufacturer’s instructions. Apply 4 1/2″ square of stabilizer to WRONG side of foundation fabric. Set aside.

Apply 3 1/2″ piece of fusible web to WRONG side of middle layer fabric.  Remove paper backing.  With fusible web facing down, center on RIGHT side of foundation fabric (there should be a 1/2″ margin on all sides of middle layer); fuse. Set aside.

Cut out applique pattern of choice.  Trace pattern onto paper side of 3″ square of fusible web; fuse to WRONG side of top fabric. Cut out the design and remove paper backing. With fusible web facing down, center applique on RIGHT side of middle layer; fuse. Your panel should look like the following (sorry, it’s a little hard to see with the orange against the orange):

Stitch around appliques (if you can be bothered), using your stitch of choice. I used the straight stitch and a loose zig zag here and the blanket stitch and zig zag in other samples.

Fuse heavy-weight interfacing to WRONG side of front panel.  If you are using non-fusible, just skip ahead and we’ll add it at the end. Set panel aside.

Apply Vinyl: Lay clear vinyl on RIGHT side of front panel. Position so there is approx. a 1/2″ border of vinyl around front panel if you are going to forgo using pins or clips (read not below). If you are using pins or clips, trim vinyl to 4 1/2 x 4 1/2″   Baste using a 1/8″ seam allowance and a slightly longer stitch length than normal ( I used 3.0).

NOTE:  Pinning through vinyl can cause visible holes in your project.  You can use clips or pin just within the  seam allowance to hold vinyl in place.  I didn’t do either and didn’t have any shifting problems, but I used a non-stick foot.  If you don’t have a non-stick foot and your sewing machine drags on the clear vinyl, try one the following:

  •  Apply masking tape to underside of presser foot
  •  Rub a small amount of sewing machine oil to underside of  presser foot
  •  Place wax paper between vinyl and needle.

Trim vinyl even with front panel.

Create Back Panel Pocket: Fold one 4 1/2″ edge of  back panel to WRONG side 1/2″, press.  Repeat with second back panel. Top stitch finished edge. On the WRONG side of one back panel, draw a star on the unfinished, 4 1/2″ edge.

With finished edges facing, position the panel with the star over the second back panel piece by 1/2″;  so the overall height is 4 1/2″. Pin and baste within overlapped area.

Pen Loop & Handle  On RIGHT side of front panel, measure and mark 2 1/4″ in from one top corner.

Pen Loop:  Wrap elastic around the center of your dry erase pen. Stretch elastic slightly so the pen will fit snugly into the loop once sewn.  Mark amount needed, add 1/2″, and cut.
Fold elastic from previous step in half and center over the mark on the front panel. Align ends of elastic with top edge of front panel. Pin within seam allowance.  Cut an 8″ piece of elastic.  Position ends along edges of pen loop as illustrated below.  Baste elastic using a 1/8″ seam allowance.

Sew Front to Back: Lay front panel RIGHT side up, so the end with handles is at the top of work surface.

Lay back panel RIGHT side down on top of front panel. Orient back panel so the end with the star is at the top of work surface. Align all edges. Sew around perimeter.

Clip seam allowances at corners. Be careful not to cut into seam!

Remove the basting stitches from the back panel.

Turn RIGHT side out through the pocket on back panel. Use a blunt tool to poke out the corners. Finger press seam. If you haven’t added your heavy interfacing, roll into a tube and insert into back pocket.  Unroll it flat and check for fit, trim if necessary.  Top stitch, if desired, using a 1/8″ seam allowance.



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